This is the Covering page. I purchased two sheets of the Mahogany Veneer from TapeEase.com to cover my speaker cabinets. One piece of veneer was 4' * 10' and the other was 4' * 8'. Unfortunately, I had to purchase a 10 foot long piece of veneer to go up and over the rounded tops. For two extra feet of veneer, it cost me 3 times what a sheet of 8 foot long veneer regularly costs. I ended up paying about $150 for the 4' * 10' sheet of veneer and $50 for the 4' * 8' sheet of veneer. I knew I had one shot at getting this right, because I was not going to buy another sheet of that 4' * 10' long veneer. I was also a little bit limited in my selection of the 10 foot long piece. Not all species come this long. Dave at TapeEase helped me out quit a bit. It was pretty tough trying to explain to him over the phone what I was trying to do. I'm sure he thought I was crazy.
Please click on the thumbnail pictures to download the larger picture.
After attaching the rounded tops to the speaker cabinets, I glued a piece of black Formica to the sides and tops. I had to do this because, I needed more support on the tops. The veneer is only about 1/32" thick, if I would of only used just the veneer, I would run the risk of poking a hole in the rounded tops.
I'm not sure if gluing the Formica was the best idea, but I had an old sheet of it in the attic and it was all I could come up with at the time. Now that I look back, I think the idea worked out OK, I would probably do it again this way because it was pretty easy.
After cutting the 4' * 10' sheet of veneer into two long pieces, I glued them in place with contact cement. I glued the right side of the speaker cabinet first and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
As you can see I finally put my weight set to good use....
Here's another picture of gluing down the right side of the speakers. I thought if I glue this side down first and let it dry really good, I would have less trouble bending over the rounded tops. I new I had to pull the veneer as tight as I could and make sure no air bubbles were in the veneer. I had my brother-in-law help me do this.
After letting the right side dry, I then glued the other side of the veneer and stretched it over the rounded tops and glued it down as best as I could. It actually was not hard at all. I was really worried about this part, but it ended up being one of the easiest. I let this dry for another 24 hours before trimming off the excess veneer.
Here's another picture of the gluing of the veneer to the rounded tops. After gluing the veneer down, I used a hard rubber roller (I think it's called a J Bar) to make sure all of the air bubbles were out from under the veneer. I just rolled from the center of the cabinets to the outside. This also makes sure the veneer gets glued down to the cabinet surface. Again, this is not hard at all.
Here's a picture of the cabinets after I trimmed the access veneer off. This was by far the hardest part of the process. I used a router with a flush trimmer bit and had to go along the edge of the rounded tops. There was not real solid surface to place my router on, I was afraid I would cut into the speaker cabinets. I thought long and hard before I tried this.
Now I'm gluing the veneer on the front of the speaker cabinets. I let the glue dry for 24 hours before trimming off the excess veneer. I rolled out all air bubbles with the roller just like before. I even rolled over the holes for the speakers. I wanted to make sure the veneer didn't raise up over time around the speaker holes. That wouldn't look very good.
This is after I trimmed the excess veneer off with the router bit. This process was a lot easier than trimming the tops. At least I had a flat surface to work from.
I also drilled a 1/2" hole in each speaker opening, I used a flush trimmer router bit first. I then routered out the rabbits with the rabbit router bit. I didn't want to bite off to much with the rabbit bit. I knew I couldn't afford to make a mistake at this point.
This is the finished product before I stained them. I sanded them down with 600 grit sand paper until they were smooth as silk. It was really important that I didn't round off the corners when I as sanding. I tried to use a sanding block when I was around the corners.
I think they turned out pretty cool.
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