Cut Out and Assembly Page


This is the cut out and assembly page. I started with a few sheets of 4' by 8' by 3/4" MDF board. I set the MDF board on my saw horses and rough cut them into smaller more manageable pieces. After the rough cuts, I then took the pieces to my table saw and cut all of the fronts and backs out. Then reset my saw for the side pieces and cut out 4 side pieces. And finally reset the saw for the tops, bottoms and internal bracing pieces.

I attached all of the pieces with 1 1/2" wood screws and liquid nails. This was the first time I have ever worked with liquid nails. After using it, I think I like it better that wood glue. You apply it out of a caulk gun, so it goes on pretty easy. When it is dry, it has a really solid hold. Also, I counter sunk all of the screw holes.

In a matter of about an hour, I had all of the pieces cut out. It really was not difficult at all to get uniform cuts for every piece. Fortunately I had my table saw to cut all of these pieces out. You could do this with a circular saw and a guide, it just would be a little more difficult.

Please click on the thumbnail pictures to download the larger picture.


This picture is when I was rough cutting the large 4' by 8' sheet of MDF into more manageable pieces. I just took my circular saw and ripped panels that were a little larger than I needed for the fronts, backs and sides. I then took the panels to my table saw and cut them all out.


This picture is after I cut out all of the fronts, backs, sides, tops and bottoms. Once I set my table saw up, it was pretty easy going from that point on. Time to call it a day and drink a beer.


After getting the backs cut out, I cut holes for the two port holes, and the speaker connectors. Notice we are set up for Bi-Amp connections. 

I just used my jig saw to cut the holes out.

 


Here's another picture of the backs with the port hole and speaker connector in them. The port hole adaptors came with the speaker kit, and I purchased the speaker adaptor separately. The kit came with really nice "Big Stud" connectors, I had the Bi-Amp connectors around the house and wanted to save my "Big Studs" for my Paramour Amps from Bootlehead.com.


This is the front panels after using a circle cutter to cut the holes for the woofers and tweeters. The plans tell you exactly were to place the holes. This was a little bit tricky, but if you really take your time, it will come out fine. Also, I routered each hole, so the speakers would set flush with the front. I used a simple rabbit router bit to do this. This was also real easy to do, because the plans tell you which size rabbit bit to use.

 


Here, I have completed construction of the main cabinet, next I have to glue the insulation in. I put "Doc's Secret Sauce" on the inside of the cabinet. Don't ask me what it does, it just came with the speaker kit and I applied it on the inside. I just put  rubber gloves on and spread it out everywhere.

Notice the internal braces. They are the same size as the top and bottom, I just cut a round circle out with my jigsaw. The plans tell you what size hole.

 


Here's another picture of both of the speaker cabinets after applying "Doc's Secret Sauce". The sauce was a little bit stinky, but you get used to it pretty quick.

 It Sauce seemed like it was a cross between white paint and glue. Maybe we'll have to ask the good Doctor about what's in his sauce.

 


Included with the speaker kit is the insulation for each speaker. This insulation looks like the old carpet matting they used to use before foam rubber. It came in one big sheet and I just it cut it out with a pair of scissors. I then purchased some spray on contact cement and glued it to the sides and back. This process was real easy, just time consuming.

 


I finally attached the front panels and here are the full cabinets completed. I used liquid nails and 1 1/2" wood screws to attach all pieces. I'm not sure you can have to many screws. The only caution I can give you is, make sure you always drill a pilot hole before screwing into the MDF. If you don't, the screw will split the MDF apart, I learned this the hard way. Time to build the rounded tops.

 


Building the rounded tops was a little tricky. I finally decided to build a top with 4 half moon shapes connected to a 1/4 piece of Masonite. The half moon shapes are made out of 3/4" MDF board, along with the supports in between them. I just glued all of the pieces together to make one solid piece to mount on top of each speaker.


After building the rounded top pieces, I then glued and screwed them to the top of the speaker cabinet. It was a little difficult to get everything lined up perfectly. I just tried to take my time and do the best I could.

 


Here is a picture with both of the rounded tops mounted to the speaker cabinets. Each rounded top mated to a specific speaker cabinet, either the left or right. 

 


This is just one more view of the rounded tops mounted to the speaker cabinet. I glued the heck out of them so they would not move or vibrate over time.

Now it's time to begin covering the cabinets. 

 


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